3 Common Reasons Why Your Puncture Repair Isn’t Working

3 Common Reasons Why Your Puncture Repair Isn’t Working

A puncture can be a real drag on your day, especially if it happens on the way home from work when you’re tired and just want to get back so you can kick your feet up and relax for the night. 

What’s worse is that most motorcycle BFGoodrich Tyres Wrexham aren’t equipped with run-flats (yet) and don’t do anything more than patch the 3cm-deep hole where your inner tube has been compromised, which means you’ll probably need some help getting your bike back on its wheels again.

If not, you’ll be left contemplating pushing home at 2mph or risk riding on an exploding tubeless tyre (don’t ask how we know). Awkward! So you need to know about these 

Tyre & Wheel Balancing

After buying a new set of tyres, the first thing you should do is to get them fitted and balanced by a professional. This will usually cost around £10, but it’s one of the best investments you can make. A well-balanced wheel/tyre setup contributes to better handling, more grip, better fuel economy, and ultimately fewer punctures.

Proper Inflation

Correct tyre pressure has an enormous effect on your tyre performance. As a rule of thumb, you should always run at least the maximum (indicated by either a psi or bar rating). Which is listed on your tyre’s sidewall in big black letters. – This ensures most of the tyre touches the ground rather than just 2% like with under-inflated tyres.

  • The minimum tyre pressure you should run is relatively low, usually between 18-22psi; we recommend starting at the lower end of the scale and increasing the pressure in small increments if your riding style or weather conditions require it (e.g., sudden temperature changes). 
  • Underinflation drastically increases the chance of a puncture because it causes excessive flexing in your tyre, resulting in tears. And weak spots, something that’s never good when you’re trying to avoid things that go into holes in the road. 
  • This effect can also contribute to overheating your tyre(s) when cornering, especially at high speeds – leading to poor grip and potential loss of control.

Sidewall Scuffs

Scuffed sidewalls may not be as menacing as a big, gaping hole in the middle of your tyre, but they’re just as bad. The rubber is being dragged along the road surface, which rapidly deteriorates its performance, leading to poor grip and additional tyre pressure. 

What’s worse is that it leaves behind another scuff mark on your sidewall, which can lead to more enormous tears over time if you don’t fix them straight away!

  • Scuffs are generally caused by riding with underinflated tyres or by scraping against kerbstones/road signs/other complex objects when leaned over at high speeds (a common mistake for new riders).
  • It’s not always easy to avoid them entirely, but you can dramatically reduce their severity by maintaining correct tyre pressures. 
  • To prevent future damage, you can also lightly sand the scuffed area and apply a high-quality rubber solution (such as Vittoria’s Rubber Solution).

Flat Spots

If you’ve ever experienced a puncture, chances are it wasn’t caused by something sharp like wood or glass, but rather something blunt like smashed-up stones and other road debris.

The indentations created by these objects can cause your tyre to deform in such a way that it wears down the centre of the tread much faster than usual – this is known as “flat spotting” or “snakebites”. 

It’s most common after riding on motorways due to their lack of drainage, leading to pools of water forming on the surface. The water makes the road extra smooth, and it’s easy to skid on the surface without realising it, which can flatten your tyre in a matter of seconds.

Tread Punctures

This is probably the most common cause of punctures and something that you’ll have to deal with regularly as a cyclist. All tyres have at least some degree of tread, but it usually doesn’t go all the way around – not unless you’re riding full-knobbly or racing tyres (which are somewhat impractical for everyday use). 

  • Even then, there should be enough grooves to help remove water/grit/debris between hard braking and cornering; otherwise, you’re more likely to experience deformed sidewalls.
  • Riding with worn tyres is very similar to riding with flat spots – the main difference being they’re often more difficult to notice. As such, you should strictly avoid them at all costs and ensure your tyres are replaced every 2-3 months.

Since they don’t always look worn out, we recommend using a ruler so you can measure their depth in millimetres/1/32nd of an inch – anything below 4 mm represents a new tyre. 

Pro tip: new tyres generally have a nice, black stripe on the side that ensures optimal contact between rubber and road surface while cornering. If it starts looking grey or white, then it’s time for a replacement.

Tubeless Punctures

If you’re not familiar with tubeless tyre technology, it can be easy to dismiss a puncture as another case of standard, inner tube type failure.

However, the reality is that punctures in this format are incredibly rare because there’s no such thing as “inner tube” – they were removed entirely from the equation, which means one more minor component for things like glass and nails to damage. 

Instead, your tubeless Tyres Wrexham will probably succumb to sidewall scuffs or side-wall cuts (which we’ll get into later).